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Lights, Camera, Couture! Julien's & TCM's 'Hollywood Legends: Unmistakably Mackie' Auction Delivers in Regal Style

Julien's & TCM's 'Hollywood Legends: Unmistakably Mackie' auction celebrated legendary designer Bob Mackie's career, featuring his iconic designs including pieces worn by Cher and Miley Cyrus, with the top lot fetching $101,600, demonstrating Mackie's enduring influence on fashion and popular culture.

December 12, 2024

The Waldorf Astoria Beverly Hills shimmered with anticipation on December 11th, as we presented "Hollywood Legends: Unmistakably Mackie" in partnership with Turner Classic Movies – a dazzling celebration of the legendary designer's unparalleled career. The energy in the room was electric, a testament to Bob Mackie's enduring influence on fashion and popular culture.

With Julien's dynamic auctioneer Erica Ollwerther at the helm, delivering her signature witty and engaging call, the bidding proceeded at a thrilling pace, proving that Mackie's creations are as coveted today as they were decades ago.

Days before the in-person and online auction kicked off, Miley Cyrus privately acquired one of Mackie’s iconic silver beaded performance dresses, a significant moment ahead of the riveting livestream event.

This stunning piece, Which Cyrus donned during her show-stopping 2024 Grammy performance of "Flowers," solidified Mackie's continued relevance in contemporary pop culture and set the stage for the excitement to come.

The auction itself was a veritable feast for the eyes, showcasing a curated selection of Mackie’s most memorable designs. The top lot, fetching an impressive $101,600, was the "It Had to Be You" three-piece ensemble designed for Cher's performance on The Sonny and Cher Show. This 1920s-inspired masterpiece, featuring a fur-trimmed velvet coat, a shimmering gold beaded gown, and a matching turban, perfectly encapsulated Mackie's ability to blend historical references with his own unique flair. The fact that this piece, along with several others, was featured in the 2024 documentary Naked Illusion, which chronicles Mackie's illustrious career, only added to its desirability.

Another standout was the burgundy iridescent organza two-piece worn by Cher during her "Take Me Home" performance on The Cher Show in 1975. This fully beaded ensemble, a testament to Mackie's meticulous craftsmanship, sold for a remarkable $95,250. Its intricate beading, low-cut neckline, and dramatic fringe perfectly captured the glamour and boldness that have become synonymous with both Mackie and Cher.

a silver dress with fringe and beads on a white background

a mannequin wearing a gold dress and a fur coat

a purple dress with fringe and sequins on a white background

a snakeskin outfit with a jacket , pants , boots and gloves

a white and gold sequined dress with a plunging neckline

a long brown dress with feathers on the sleeves

it is a drawing of a woman in a pink dress .

a red and black dress with a crop top and a long skirt

a mannequin is wearing a white and gold dress

1. Miley Cyrus | Bob Mackie 66th Grammy Awards Performance Worn Dress, 2. Cher | "It Had to Be You" Bob Mackie Three-Piece 1920s Inspired Performance Costume, 3. Cher | The Cher Show Performance Bob Mackie Beaded Two-Piece, 4. Cher | 1979 "Cher...And Other Fantasies" Bob Mackie Snake Skin Ensemble (With DVD), 5. Diahann Carroll | 1976 "The Diahann Carroll Show" Bob Mackie Evening Gown, 6. Cher | The Sonny And Cher Show Performance Bob Mackie Evening Gown With Record, 7. Carol Burnett | The Carol Burnett Show "Norma Desmond" Bob Mackie Costume Illustration, 8. Cher | 1972 “The Sonny And Cher Comedy Hour” Two Piece Velvet Ensemble, 9. Cher | Bob Mackie 1983 Academy Award Worn Gown,

The auction wasn't solely focused on Cher's iconic looks, though her presence was certainly felt throughout. A 1979 snakeskin ensemble worn by Cher for her Cher…And Other Fantasies television special, where she portrayed a snake in a "Garden of Eden" sketch with Andy Kaufman, brought in $44,450. This playful and theatrical design highlighted Mackie's versatility and his willingness to embrace the fantastical.

A stunning white and grey fully beaded evening gown worn by Diahann Carroll on The Diahann Carroll Show and in Dynasty publicity photos realized $32,500. This elegant piece showcased Mackie's ability to create sophisticated and timeless designs for a diverse range of performers.

Even Mackie's sketches garnered significant attention. A signed original illustration of Carol Burnett as Norma Desmond for The Carol Burnett Show sold for $25,400, demonstrating the value placed on every facet of Mackie's creative process. This particular sketch, with its "Art Work Loan Information" sticker from The Museum at the Fashion Institute of Technology, offered a fascinating glimpse into the history and preservation of Mackie's work.

Other Noteworthy Sales:

Carol Burnett

The Carol Burnett Show "Norma Desmond" Bob Mackie Costume Illustration

Sold Price

$25,400

Estimate:

$1,000 - $2,000

A signed original Bob Mackie mixed medium costume illustration of Carol Burnett dressed as "Norma Desmond" for a sketch performed for The Carol Burnett Show (1967-78, CBS).

The sketch features a full-length rendering of Carol Burnett, dressed in a 1920s-inspired costume as Norma Desmond. "Norma Desmond" is written in marker at the top left-hand corner, and Bob Mackie's signature is on the bottom right-hand corner.

Burnett parodied iconic film characters throughout her variety show, including Scarlet O'Hara, Mildred Pierce, and Norma Desmond. Sketches of Burnett as Desmond include "Hollywood Icon vs. Billy the Bed Bug" (season 6, episode 11) and "The Roast Goes Off the Rails" (season 8, episode 5).

On the back of the illustration is a sticker that reads, "Art Work Loan Information, The Museum at the Fashion Technology, Loan Number: L99.33.D, Subject: C.B. Norma Desmond, Value: 3,000, Dated: 8/9/99, signed Bob Mackie."

PROVENANCE From The Archives of Bob Mackie

This specific design was seen in Bob Mackie's 2024 documentary Naked Illusion chronicling Mackie's career and eye catching designs.

Cher

The Cher Show Performance Bob Mackie Beaded Two-Piece

Sold Price

$95,250

Estimate:

$3,000 - $5,000

This is a two-piece fully beaded ensemble designed by Bob Mackie for Cher. She wore it for her "Take Me Home" performance in season one of The Cher Show, which aired April 6, 1975 (1975-76 CBS).

The burgundy iridescent organza ensemble (lined in matching silk crepe) features a symmetric beaded crop top and a low-waisted beaded skirt. The top has darted cups with a low-cut neckline and sleeve on the right and is beaded with iridescent burgundy, faceted rhinestones, and fringe. Heavy beaded embroidery trims the border of the neckline, creating a geometric pattern. The left cup of the bust is fully beaded in matching bugle beading. Top fastens with an interior hook and eye at the overlapping panels at the back of the bodice. The floor-length skirt has a drop waist with heavy beaded embellishment at the waistband and left hip, mirroring the pattern of the neckline. No size or labels are present.

Cher began her own variety show with CBS from 1975 to 1976, following the conclusion of The Sonny and Cher Comedy Hour. The show aired for two seasons and had 26 episodes.

This specific design was seen in Bob Mackie's 2024 documentary Naked Illusion chronicling Mackie's career and eye catching designs.

Bob Mackie and Cher have become one of the most incredible designer-muse symbiotic relationships of the 20th century. His nude illusion beaded and rhinestone gowns have become a part of fashion's pantheon of designs in pop culture. 2019, the Metropolitan Museum of Art exhibition on Camp featured numerous Mackie Mackie designs from the 1970s and 80s. Designers like Donatella Versace, Alessandro Michelle, and Jeremy Scott were contemporary designers whose custom looks paid homage to original, sexy, and satirical Mackie designs.

The interior is missing its label but was designed in the 70s when Bob and Ray Aghgayon ran their joint business, Elizabeth Courtney Costumes. Mackie and Aghayan created dazzling nude illusion, voluminous feathers, and filled beaded gowns worn by celebrities for publicity, editorial, stage, and screen. Their elaborate creations have transcended decades, becoming timeless, with Mackie's archives still being worn and featured on the red carpet today.

Bob Mackie's career spans six decades with his work gaining popular and critical acclaim since the 1960s, including, three Academy Award nominations for costume design, nine Emmys wins (total of 33 nominations and awards), a Tony Award for The Cher Show, and the prestigious CDFA Geoffrey Beene award.

PROVENANCE From The Archives of Bob Mackie

Cher

"It Had to Be You" Bob Mackie Three-Piece 1920s Inspired Performance Costume

Sold Price

$101,600

Estimate:

$4,000 - $6,000

A Bob Mackie three-piece costume design for Cher referencing the 1920s with a fur-trimmed velvet coat, gold bead gown, and a matching beaded turban that Cher wore on The Sonny and Cher Show when she performed "It Had to Be You." Cher wore the gold bead again on The Sonny and Cher Show, season 2, episode 14, air date February 4, 1977, for the show's opening, where both Sonny and her sang "You Make Me Feel Like Dancing."

The design features a full-length fur-trimmed brown cloak with batwing sleeves and a short train, a fully embellished vermicelli beaded gold gown with an asymmetric neckline cut at the center of the bodice and an exposed back, and a matching gold-embellished turban with a draped cowl. Cher's cloak features an upright collar that follows the fur trim outlining the opening and hem of the piece. It is fully lined, with no label present. The gown has a Bob Mackie label sewn at the interior.

This specific design was seen in Bob Mackie's 2024 documentary Naked Illusion chronicling Mackie's career and eye catching designs.

PROVENANCE From The Archives of Bob Mackie

Pink

Bob Mackie 2022 AMA 1987 Archival Earthquake Dress

Sold Price

$10,400

Estimate:

$5,000 - $6,000

A 1987 archival design from Bob Mackie's archives worn by Pink on the red carpet of the AMA Awards on November 22, 2022.

The design was a part of Mackie's 1987 "California Collection," referencing California's earthquake natural disaster. Fully embellished with sequins and beads, the dress features a jagged sheer cut lined with tulle that runs asymmetrically from the neck to the right thigh; the left features a thigh slip hem as well. The dress is anything but modest with an exposed nack, strategic reveals, and a short hem with slits it made for a pop superstar's red carpet entrance. A Bob Mackie label is on the interior, but no size tag is present.

Pink wore two of Mackie's designs for the award show, changing into a customer-made gown worn by Cher for one of her tours honoring the late Oliva Newton-John with a performance of "Hopelessly Devoted to You."

The interior has a Bob Mackie Ray Aghayan label sewn on. Bob and Ray began working together on The Judy Garland Show, whose designs quickly gained fanfare, leading them into their joint business venture with Elizabeth Courtney Costumes. Mackie and Aghayan created dazzling nude illusion, voluminous feathers, and filled beaded gowns worn by celebrities for publicity, editorial, stage, and screen. Their elaborate creations have transcended decades, becoming timeless, with Mackie's archives still being worn and featured on the red carpet today.

PROVENANCE From The Archives of Bob Mackie

Judy Garland

"The Judy Garland Show" Bob Mackie Costume Design Illustration

Sold Price

$7,800

Estimate:

$1,000 - $2,000

A signed Bob Mackie original fashion illustration of Judy Garland for The Judy Garland Show (1963-64, CBS).

The mixed medium illustration features a full-length Judy Garland figure dressed in a cocktail-length white dress with three-quarter sleeves and a raised boat-neck collar trimmed with fur and embellished accents. A "Judy" notation is on the left side center, and Bob Mackie's signature is at the bottom right-hand corner. This is a signed illustration by Mackie of a Ray Aghayan design.

Judy wore this specific design for two episodes, one with guest stars Peggy Lee, Carl Reiner, and Vic Damone. Episode 12, aired November 3, 1963, featured Judy and Damone singing "Summertime" from Porgy and Bess. The second episode, 13, aired December 1, 1963, with guest stars Peggy Lee, Jack Carter, and Carl Reiner. Judy performs with each guest but does a medley with Carter that includes several show tunes, and she continues to wear this white evening ensemble design by Aghayan and Mackie.

The Judy Garland Show aired 26 episodes and showcased Judy's vocals, personality, and the performer's elegance and style, a credit to Aghayan and Mackie. The tailored clothing, proportions, necklines, and tasteful embellishments were fashionable and classic and had a couture look that made Judy even more glamorous in her final years as an entertainer.

Bob Mackie began his career working with some of the most acclaimed Hollywood costume designers, Jean Louis and Edith Head. In 1963, he began working with Ray Aghayan for CBS's The Judy Garland Show, then went on to work and collaborated with Carol Burnette, Cher, and Diana Ross. Mackie's satiric eye referencing films from the Golden Age of cinema and beaded nude illusion pieces became style hallmarks for the 60s, 70s, 80s, and 90s. His designs continue to attract the interest of new generations of performers and celebrities who continue to wear his designs.

PROVENANCE From The Archives of Bob Mackie

Throughout the auction, the symbiotic relationship between Bob Mackie and his muses, particularly Cher, was a recurring theme. Their collaboration has produced some of the most iconic looks in entertainment history, solidifying Mackie's place in the pantheon of fashion designers. As noted in many of the auction descriptions, the 2019 Metropolitan Museum of Art exhibition "Camp: Notes on Fashion" featured numerous Mackie designs from the 1970s and 80s, further cementing his influence on contemporary designers like Donatella Versace, Alessandro Michele, and Jeremy Scott.

The "Hollywood Legends: Unmistakably Mackie" auction was more than just a sale of garments; it was a celebration of artistry, creativity, and the enduring power of fashion. It was a testament to Bob Mackie's genius and his indelible mark on the world of entertainment.

The success of the auction, with its enthusiastic bidding and impressive sales figures, proves that Mackie's creations continue to captivate and inspire, ensuring his legacy for generations to come.

a man wearing glasses and a black sweater is laughing

Live Auction

HOLLYWOOD LEGENDS : UNMISTAKABLY MACKIE

Dec 11, 2024

10:00 AM PST