Press

Music

Film & TV

Art

Defining Designers of Julien’s ‘Bold Luxury’

Explore the iconic designs of Bob Mackie, John Galliano, and Jacques Azagury as previously sold in Julien's 'Bold Luxury' series of auctions, and highlighting their influence on pop culture, royalty, and fashion history.

Share

facebook logox logoinstagram logo
Charli XCX 2024 "Sweat Tour" Stage-Worn Ensemble

Charli XCX | 2024 "Sweat Tour" Stage-Worn Ensemble

The forthcoming Bold Luxury: Bob Mackie, Stage Glamour & The Couture Edit auction is a curated celebration of fashion that has defined pop culture, graced royalty, and captured the imagination of the world. At the heart of this collection are three legendary designers—Bob Mackie, John Galliano, and Jacques Azagury—whose pieces have historically fetched respectable, and often record-breaking, prices, solidifying their status as masters of their respective domains. Their creations, which bridge high glamour, theatrical flair, and intimate couture, form the glittering foundation of this extraordinary event.

Bob Mackie: The Sultan of Sequins and Architect of Iconography

No designer is more synonymous with pure, unadulterated show-stopping spectacle than Bob Mackie. His work is a vibrant, sparkling testament to the power of high-octane stage glamour, a signature aesthetic that has made him the undisputed master of dressing entertainers. The sheer volume and consistently high prices fetched by his creations—particularly for his muse, Cher—underscore his enduring value as a cultural icon.

Mackie's garments are not merely clothes; they are costumes of self-reinvention. His "If I Could Turn Back Time" costume, worn by Cher, commanded a staggering $162,500, nearly doubling its high estimate, a clear indicator of the deep cultural resonance of his most famous pieces. His designs are characterized by intricate beading, audacious cut-outs, plunging necklines, and a theatrical sensibility that transforms the wearer into a living legend. From the 1979 "Snake Skin Ensemble" to the 1975 Cher Show Performance Worn Beaded Two-Piece, his hand is unmistakable.

The auction’s anchorage in over 50 pieces by Bob Mackie is a salute to a designer who perfected the art of the "Naked Dress," dressing everyone from Britney Spears in her 2001 "Jubilee" burlesque ensemble to the timeless elegance of Diahann Carroll in a 1976 evening gown. Mackie’s legacy is in his ability to craft fashion that is fearless, celebratory, and permanently etched into the history of music and television.

Cher | Stage-Worn "If I Could Turn Back Time" Costume by Bob Mackie
Cher | 1979 "Cher...And Other Fantasies" Bob Mackie Snake Skin Ensemble
Cher | The Cher Show Performance Bob Mackie Beaded Two-Piece
Cher "It Had to Be You" Bob Mackie Three-Piece 1920s Inspired Performance Costume
Britney Spears 2001 Bob Mackie French Wirework "Jubilee" Burlesque Ensemble (With Signed Magazine)
Diahann Carroll 1976 "The Diahann Carroll Show" Bob Mackie Evening Gown

1. Cher | Stage-Worn "If I Could Turn Back Time" Costume by Bob Mackie, 2. Cher | 1979 "Cher...And Other Fantasies" Bob Mackie Snake Skin Ensemble , 3. Cher | The Cher Show Performance Bob Mackie Beaded Two-Piece, 4. Cher | "It Had to Be You" Bob Mackie Three-Piece 1920s Inspired Performance Costume, 5. Britney Spears | 2001 Bob Mackie French Wirework "Jubilee" Burlesque Ensemble (With Signed Magazine), 6. Diahann Carroll | 1976 "The Diahann Carroll Show" Bob Mackie Evening Gown,

John Galliano: The Romantic Visionary and Master of Theatrical Couture

John Galliano is a designer whose career has been a thrilling, decade-spanning narrative of unbridled theatricality, meticulous tailoring, and deeply researched cultural references. His work, both under his eponymous label and during his highly influential tenures at Christian Dior and Maison Margiela, represents the apex of couture as art form. His pieces consistently command high prices due to their rarity, historical significance, and indelible imprint on fashion history.

Galliano's transformative power is evident in his archival work. The Christian Dior Fall 2000 Newspaper Print Dress—a quintessential piece of pop culture history famously worn by Carrie Bradshaw in Sex and the City—sold for $11,700. This demonstrates how a Galliano design, especially one that defined a zeitgeist moment, becomes a highly coveted collector's item, merging high fashion with popular memory.

Furthermore, his range spans decades and sensibilities: from the historically influenced Sir Elton John-owned 1985 tailcoat from his early, acclaimed "Afghanistan repudiates Western ideals" collection, to the sophisticated ease of the Spring 2011 Black Coat with Guipure Lace Panels. Even his modern influence is on display with the Charli XCX stage-worn ensemble designed for Maison Margiela, which exceeded its high estimate tenfold, realizing $22,225. Galliano’s pieces are valued for their masterful bias-cutting, dramatic silhouettes, and the sheer narrative ambition woven into every seam.

Charli XCX 2024 "Sweat Tour" Stage-Worn Ensemble
Charli XCX | 2024 "Sweat Tour" Stage-Worn Ensemble
Christian Dior John Galliano For Dior Fall 2000 Newspaper Print Dress
Christian Dior John Galliano For Dior Fall 2000 Newspaper Print Dress
Sir Elton John John Galliano Spring/Summer 1985 collection "Afghanistan repudiates Western ideals" Coat
Dior John Galliano For Dior 2002 Runway Hat
Sky Ferreira 2001 John Galliano for Dior "Babygirl" Premiere-Worn Gown
John Galliano Spring 2011 Black Coat with Guipere Lace Panels

1. Charli XCX | 2024 "Sweat Tour" Stage-Worn Ensemble, 3. Christian Dior | John Galliano For Dior Fall 2000 Newspaper Print Dress, 5. Sir Elton John | John Galliano Spring/Summer 1985 collection "Afghanistan repudiates Western ideals" Coat, 6. Dior | John Galliano For Dior 2002 Runway Hat, 7. Sky Ferreira | 2001 John Galliano for Dior "Babygirl" Premiere-Worn Gown, 8. John Galliano | Spring 2011 Black Coat with Guipere Lace Panels,

Jacques Azagury: The Discreet Couturier to Royalty

While Bob Mackie created costumes for the stage and Galliano crafted high fashion for the spectacle, Jacques Azagury worked in a more intimate, yet equally impactful, sphere: dressing the most photographed woman in the world, Diana, Princess of Wales. Azagury’s designs offer a glimpse into the evolution of Princess Diana’s style, transitioning from romantic royal to confident fashion icon. The extraordinary sale price of $1,152,000 for the 1985 Black Velvet and Royal Blue Organza Evening Dress places his work in a rare echelon of global fashion history, confirming the collector’s premium on his royal provenance.

Azagury's brilliance lies in his sweet, sophisticated design language, often incorporating elements that winked at Diana's personality, such as the ballerina skirt in the 1985 dress, a nod to her love of dance. His pieces for the Princess often marked significant moments, like the ice-blue silk georgette cocktail dress worn shortly before her passing, the illustration of which sold for $13,000. The demand for Azagury's work is driven by both the rarity of his royal commissions and the deep emotional connection people have to Princess Diana's legacy. He was a discreet couturier whose designs perfectly balanced the demands of public life with personal elegance, creating dresses that are now priceless artifacts of the modern monarchy.

The Bold Luxury series of Julien's auctions consistently offers uniques opportunities to acquire pieces from the most notable fashion titans. Whether it's the audacious sparkle of a Mackie original, the cultural gravity of a Galliano masterpiece, or the unparalleled romance of an Azagury-designed royal gown, this collection is a celebration of eternal glamour and fashion’s power to spark desire and define culture across generations.

Princess Diana Jacques Azagury 1985 Evening Dress
Princess Diana 1997 Jacques Azagury 36th Birthday Evening Gown Illustration
Princess Diana 1997 Jacques Azagury 1997 Swan Lake Ice Blue Cocktail Dress Illustration
Princess Diana 1997 Jacques Azagury Washington D.C. Red Evening Gown Illustration
Princess Diana Jacques Azagury 1995 Embellished Black Evening Fashion Illustration
Princess Diana Jacques Azagury Signed Princess Diana Evening Dress Illustration

1. Princess Diana | Jacques Azagury 1985 Evening Dress, 2. Princess Diana | 1997 Jacques Azagury 36th Birthday Evening Gown Illustration, 3. Princess Diana | 1997 Jacques Azagury 1997 Swan Lake Ice Blue Cocktail Dress Illustration, 4. Princess Diana | 1997 Jacques Azagury Washington D.C. Red Evening Gown Illustration, 5. Princess Diana | Jacques Azagury 1995 Embellished Black Evening Fashion Illustration, 6. Princess Diana | Jacques Azagury Signed Princess Diana Evening Dress Illustration,

Julien's Auctions LogoLogo

13007 S. Western Avenue, Gardena, California 90249

Phone 310-836-1818 | Fax 310-742-0155

© 2003-2026 Julien's Auctions