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Bob Mackie's Sparkling Legacy Shines in Exclusive NYC Press Preview at The Carlyle, A Rosewood Hotel

Bob Mackie's fashion legacy was on full display in an exclusive NYC press preview at The Carlyle, A Rosewood Hotel. Don't miss the Julien's Auctions and Turner Classic Movies' 'Hollywood Legends: Unmistakably Mackie' auction on December 11, featuring Mackie’s best creations. Register and bid now.

December 3, 2024

Julien's Auctions and Turner Classic Movies (TCM) brought the legendary Bob Mackie to The Carlyle, a Rosewood Hotel, for an exhibition that was as unforgettable as the designer himself.

This marks a return to the iconic New York City hotel, just months after it hosted Julien's "Princess Diana's Elegance & A Royal Collection" exhibition in May 2024.

Now, the spotlight shifts to another fashion icon, with "Hollywood Legends: Unmistakably Mackie" taking center stage for an exclusive one-day press preview.

The exhibition served as a celebration of a career that has spanned decades and defined glamour for generations. From his early days creating show-stopping ensembles for Judy Garland and Mitzi Gaynor to his iconic collaborations with Cher, Mackie has consistently pushed the boundaries of fashion, transforming fabrics into extraordinary garment works of art.

a group of mannequins are standing next to each other in a room with a piano .

a man in a blue jacket stands next to a mannequin wearing a black and gold dress

a mannequin in a red dress is standing next to a piano .

a table with a bunch of drawings on it and a book on it .

a man in a suit is talking to a cameraman in front of a wall with pictures on it .

a drawing of a woman in a fur coat is on display

a mannequin is wearing a silver dress with sequins and rhinestones

a mannequin wearing a gold dress and a fur coat

a close up of a magazine with a woman on the cover .

a mannequin is wearing a brown and gold dress

a man in a suit stands next to a mannequin wearing a dress

a group of mannequins are standing next to each other in a room .

And speaking of Cher, the exhibition offers a deep look into some of their most memorable collaborations in fashion history. Auction bidders have also been awestruck by pieces designed for the likes of Miley Cyrus, and Pink, showcasing Mackie's incredible versatility and ability to capture the unique essence of each performer. Alongside these dazzling creations, Mackie's intricate original hand-drawn sketches of these iconic dresses were also on display, offering a rare insight into his creative process. And for the truly passionate collector, these sketches are also up for bid in the “Unmistakably Mackie" auction, providing a once-in-a-lifetime opportunity to own a piece of fashion history.

"[Miley] is one of those girls, those amazing people that come out the womb ready to to hit the stage," Mackie praised of Cyrus, whose beaded performance dress is up for bid in "Unmistakably Mackie."

The press exhibition at The Carlyle, A Rosewood Hotel captured Mackie's multifaceted legacy, showcasing the breadth and depth of his artistry. His signature style, characterized by intricate beading, elaborate embroidery, and a touch of theatricality, was on full display.

The timing of the exhibition is particularly poignant, coinciding with Mackie's recent trip and fall on a subway grate that left him cut and bruised, but still bubbly in spirit. Despite the incident, the indomitable designer, now 85, insisted that the show must go on. "I'll bounce back," he told Inside Edition at the press preview. "I didn't want to miss it. I didn't want to cancel. This is part of the fun."

Pink

Bob Mackie 2022 AMA 1987 Archival Earthquake Dress

Estimate:

$5,000 - $6,000

A 1987 archival design from Bob Mackie's archives worn by Pink on the red carpet of the AMA Awards on November 22, 2022.

The design was a part of Mackie's 1987 "California Collection," referencing California's earthquake natural disaster. Fully embellished with sequins and beads, the dress features a jagged sheer cut lined with tulle that runs asymmetrically from the neck to the right thigh; the left features a thigh slip hem as well. The dress is anything but modest with an exposed nack, strategic reveals, and a short hem with slits it made for a pop superstar's red carpet entrance. A Bob Mackie label is on the interior, but no size tag is present.

Pink wore two of Mackie's designs for the award show, changing into a customer-made gown worn by Cher for one of her tours honoring the late Oliva Newton-John with a performance of "Hopelessly Devoted to You."

The interior has a Bob Mackie Ray Aghayan label sewn on. Bob and Ray began working together on The Judy Garland Show, whose designs quickly gained fanfare, leading them into their joint business venture with Elizabeth Courtney Costumes. Mackie and Aghayan created dazzling nude illusion, voluminous feathers, and filled beaded gowns worn by celebrities for publicity, editorial, stage, and screen. Their elaborate creations have transcended decades, becoming timeless, with Mackie's archives still being worn and featured on the red carpet today.

Bust: 34 inches (Underarm to Underarm) Waist: 28 inches Hips: 35 inches Length: About 38 inches (From the Top of the Halter Neckline to the End of Fringe embellishment).

Miley Cyrus

Bob Mackie 66th Grammy Awards Performance Worn Dress

Estimate:

$6,000 - $8,000

A Bob Mackie beaded evening dress worn by Miley Cyrus for her performance of "Flowers" at the 66th Grammy Awards, February 4, 2024.

A fully beaded evening dress with a cut-out midriff and fringed beaded skirt. The dress is a sheer black silk chiffon fully beaded with rhinestones, sequins, and beads. The design has ties to Mackie's nude illusion gowns with an embellished bust (two-tone, black net overlaid light beige bra-cups) that has a built-in padded bra with underwire. Small pops of magenta, purple, and teal sequins give the primarily black and silver dress a colorful sparkle. There is a hidden zip at the back of the dress with a Bob Mackie label sewn at the interior, but no size label is present. The dress comes with a pair of matching black silk chiffon-lined underwear worn due to the sheer design of the garment.

In Bob Mackie's documentary Naked Illusion, Miley Cyrus says of the dress, "One of the best parts of wearing a Bob Mackie on stage is that sometimes the audience is just as excited to see a Bob Mackie in person as they are to see you. It really looked like I was giving it all I got; I really wasn't doing anything but minding my business and singing the damn song because Bob and his dress was really doing all the work."

The dress Cyrus wore was in Mackie's 2002 runway collection "To Broadway with Love." Christian Allaire interviewed Mackie for Vogue, who explained the design origins and why it fits Cyrus perfectly: “It was a collection of fashions inspired by Broadway musicals,” says Mackie. “[Cyrus’s dress] was from a ‘Big Spender’ number. We had three girls in these little sexy fringe dresses.” Considering Cyrus’s choreography, Mackie knew the dress was perfect for her.

Allaire wrote at length for Vogue about an iconic fashion moment following the award show: "Cyrus’s shimmering Mackie ended up being one of the Grammys’ most discussed fashion moments. A huge fan of Mackie’s designs, Cyrus and her stylist, Bradley Kenneth, approached the designer about wearing something from his archives to the Grammys. Mackie says, 'She’s borrowed a few things in the past,' including for her New Year’s Eve special with Dolly Parton last year. 'Every time I’ve ever seen her in anything that I’ve [designed], I’ve adored it because she loves to perform and get dressed up—you know that she’s loving every minute of it.'"

The dress was from Mackie's runway collection that paid homage to Broadway musicals. Mackie, who also designed for the stage, took inspiration from the stage and film versions of the musicals; this particular design took inspiration from Sweet Charity.

A portion of the proceeds for this lot are being donated to Music Cares.

Bust: 16 inches (Measures 16 inches across front of padded bra). Waist: 24 inches Hips: 32 inches Length: About 43 inches (Measured from the top of the bust to the longest point at the hem).

PROVENANCE From The Archives of Bob Mackie

Cher

And Bernadette Peters Worn Bob Mackie Sheer Peignoir Wrap-Style Gown (With Magazine)

Estimate:

$3,000 - $4,000

An original Bob Mackie sheer silk peignoir-style gown with beaded accents was worn by Cher and Bernadette Peters. Cher wore the piece for a performance of "I Honestly Love You" on The Sonny and Cher Show, season 2, episode 14, aired on October 10, 1976. Peters wore the garment in an editorial for a 1981 December issue of Playboy Magazine.

A full-length white gown of sheer silk jacquard with a check pattern cut on the bias. The gown's design features an empire waistline with an asymmetric hook-and-eye closure, a white bugle beaded sash sewn at the waistline, ties at the closure, and features beaded tassels, a low-cut v-neck line trimmed with rows of bugle beads, and voluminous bishop sleeves with beaded trim and tassels at each cuff. The gown has a beige, blush-tone jersey slip, a Bob Mackie label sewn at the interior, zip and hook, and eye closure at the back.

Bob Mackie and Cher have become one of the most incredible designer-muse symbiotic relationships of the 20th century. His nude illusion beaded and rhinestone gowns have become a part of fashion's pantheon of designs in pop culture. In 2019, the Metropolitan Museum of Art exhibition on Camp featured numerous Mackie Mackie designs from the 1970s and 80s. Designers like Donatella Versace, Alessandro Michelle, and Jeremy Scott were among the contemporary designers whose custom looks paid homage to original, sexy, and satirical Mackie's designs.

This lot comes with an issue of Playboy (December 1981) that features Bernadette Peters editorial where she wearing the property being offered.

Gown: Bust: Open Waist: 26 inches Hips: Open Length: About 63 inches (Measured at Centerback) Slip: Bust 32 inches Waist 26 inches Hips About 32 inches Length 49.5 inches

PROVENANCE From The Archives of Bob Mackie

Raquel Welch

Bob Mackie Gold Beaded Evening Gown Illustration

Estimate:

$700 - $900

A signed Bob Mackie evening gown original mixed medium illustration of Raquel Welch on Bob Mackie stationary. The full-length figure of Raquel Welch is dressed in a gold beaded halter gown with a plunging low-cut asymmetric draped neckline, figure-hugging skirt, and thigh-high slit. "Raquel Welch" is notated along the right edge of the illustration, and Bob Mackie's signature is located at the bottom left-hand corner.

Mackie designed several embellished numbers for Raquel Welch's stage and television performance in the mid-70s, which she also wore for guest spots/cameos and editorials. Welch had a traveling show titled "Raquel," where she performed in custom-made Mackie designs ranging from nude illusion embellished bodysuits to floor-length gowns worn for spotlight musical numbers.

In his book Dressing for Glamour (Gerry Bremer), Mackie reflects on designing for Welch, saying, "Raquel Welch, who possesses one of the most memorable figures of our time, depends on her clothes to help her reflect an image of excitement and sexuality. Her body is a part of her personality, and dressing properly is tremendously important [...] Nobody becomes a major sex symbol by just being there. The lady knows how she wants to look and does it successfully."

Following the passing of Raquel Welch, designer Bob Mackie wrote on his Instagram account (February 15, 2023) to commemorate the star, "There was no doubt Raquel Welch was a ravishing beauty, and I loved dressing her. I got to know her well when I designed several gowns for her Parisian nightclub act. One of those ended up on the cover of L'Express. I also designed several pieces for her TV Special. She was naturally very sexy and knew exactly what she wanted to look like. I just dressed her like 'Raquel.'"

Bob Mackie's career spans six decades with his work gaining popular and critical acclaim since the 1960s, including, three Academy Award nominations for costume design, nine Emmys wins (total of 33 nominations and awards), a Tony Award for The Cher Show, and the prestigious CDFA Geoffrey Beene award.

11 x 17 inches

PROVENANCE From The Archives of Bob Mackie

Dinah Shore

1981 Costume Illustration

Estimate:

$600 - $800

A Bob Mackie original signed mixed medium illustration of Dinah Shore in a green velvet evening ensemble worn by Shore to an event in 1974, an image is available upon request.

The design features a green velvet vest-inspired top, pleated white sheer silk peasant sleeves, and a ruffled v-neckline. The top features a cinched waist that peplums below the waist, complementing the floor-length bell-shaped skirt. "Dinah Shore" is written at the top right-hand corner, and Bob Mackie's signature is at the bottom left-hand corner with "1981" dated underneath. On the back of the illustration is an Art Work, Loan Information for The Fashion Institute of Technology Museum, dated August 1999.

12 x 19 inches

PROVENANCE From The Archives of Bob Mackie

Dinah Shore

1974 Event Worn Emerald Green Velvet Evening Gown

Estimate:

$700 - $900

An original Bob Mackie custom-designed evening ensemble for Dinah Shore, featuring a green velvet vest with sheer white silk organza sleeves and green velvet skirt, was worn by Shore during a 1974 event; a link to the image is available upon request.

The design features a green velvet vest-inspired top, pleated white sheer silk bishop sleeves, and a ruffled v-neckline with embroidered gemstones and beaded along the neckline. The top features a cinched waist that peplums slightly below the waist to compliment the fullness of the bell-shaped skirt. The interior of the garments has Bob Mackie labels present.

Bust: 33 inches Waist: 26 inches (Bodice) 26 inches (Skirt) Hips: Open Length: About 62 inches (Measured at Centerback)

PROVENANCE From The Archives of Bob Mackie

Diahann Carroll

Bob Mackie Spring 1986 Sequin Cocktail Dress

Estimate:

$1,000 - $2,000

A Bob Mackie 1986 spring-ready-to-wear cocktail dress, fully embellished blue sequins, worn by Diahann Carroll. Carroll wore this dress (a.k.a The Swamp Dress) while performing her nightly cabaret act in the late 80s.

A multicolor sequin and navy bugle beaded on black silk and sequin cocktail dress with an asymmetric fringe hem (fully lined with magenta silk). The dress features a trompe l'oeil corset designed with beaded sequins, a low-cut faux lace-up neckline, and padded shoulders. The gown's yoke has a black tulle with sequin floral embroidery. The skirt design features asymmetrical elements with layered beaded panels on the left side of the hip and fringe trim. A Bob Mackie label is sewn on the dress's interior, marked a size 6, made in the United States.

Mackie recalls Carroll in the publication Dressing for Glamour, saying, "Exquisite beauty mixed with talent is a surefire combination, and one of the most beautiful and gifted performers I know is my good friend, Diahann Carroll."

Model Billie Blaire wore this design for the spring 1986 runway collection.

Bust: 39 inches Waist: 30 inches Hips: 39 inches Length: About 53 inches (Back of Neck to Lowest Point of Hem)

PROVENANCE From The Archives of Bob Mackie

Mackie's resilience and dedication to his craft are an inspiration, and the exhibition of his life's work a demonstration to his enduring spirit.

"Hollywood Legends: Unmistakably Mackie" also treats collectors with a dazzling array of designs for Hollywood royalty like Diana Ross, Liza Minnelli, Raquel Welch, and Tina Turner, among many others.

It proves Mackie was a visionary who continues to shape the world of fashion. His ability to seamlessly blend artistry, glamour, and theatricality has resulted in some of the most iconic fashion moments in history – and we couldn’t be more honored to be waltzing them across the auction block.

Don't miss this opportunity to experience the magic of Bob Mackie during our auction on December 11, at 10:00 AM PST at the Waldorf Astoria Beverly Hills with 70 lots featuring Mackie’s best. It's a chance to tangibly immerse yourself in the world of a true fashion legend and celebrate a career that has left an indelible mark on the industry.

Register and bid now.

a man wearing glasses and a black sweater is laughing

Live Auction

HOLLYWOOD LEGENDS : UNMISTAKABLY MACKIE

Dec 11, 2024

10:00 AM PST