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Bob Mackie's Muse: Cher, Sonny Bono & the Birth of Hollywood Glamour

The influential career of designer Bob Mackie, highlighting his bold and extravagant designs, his enduring collaboration with Cher, his contributions to 'The Sonny & Cher Show', and his impact on the fashion industry. Discover his iconic designs in our Turner Classic Movies and Julien's Presents: 'Hollywood Legends: Unmistakably Mackie' LIVE auction event on December 11, 2024, at 10:00 AM PST -- and featuring 70 items from Mackie's archive. Register and bid now.

November 20, 2024

Daring silhouettes, intricate embellishments, and unapologetic flamboyance are codes of Bob Mackie’s extravagant Hollywood glamour, with designs that continuously leave indelible marks on the world of fashion.

His creations, often characterized by their boldness and opulence, have graced the figures of some of the most iconic stars of the 20th and 21st centuries. Among his most enduring collaborations is his work with Cher, a partnership that has yielded some of the most memorable and groundbreaking looks in entertainment history.

Mackie's journey with Cher began in the 1960s when he was a young designer working on “The Carol Burnett Show.” Cher, then one half of the popular singing duo Sonny & Cher, quickly became enamored with Mackie's unique vision and his ability to create costumes that were both beautiful and provocative. This marked the beginning of a decades-long collaboration that would see Mackie craft countless show-stopping ensembles for Cher, both on and off the stage.

One of the hallmarks of Mackie's designs for Cher is their celebration of the female form. Mackie's creations often featured plunging necklines, daring cutouts, and sheer fabrics, all strategically employed to accentuate Cher's natural beauty and confidence. These designs were not simply about revealing skin; they were about empowering Cher, allowing her to express her individuality and challenge societal norms through fashion.

a snakeskin outfit with gloves and a headband

a mannequin is wearing a white dress with long sleeves

a mannequin is wearing a purple and black dress

a brown suit with a brown shirt and brown pants

a green jacket and pants with a gold belt

a white suit with brown buttons is on a mannequin

a drawing of a woman in a suit and mask sitting on a ball .

a drawing of a woman by bob mackie from 1978

a drawing of a woman with the name cher on it

a drawing of cher in a native american costume

a drawing of a woman in a long red dress

a colorful drawing of a woman with the name chez on it

a black and white drawing of two women standing next to each other

1. Lot #25. Cher | 1979 "Cher...And Other Fantasies" Bob Mackie Snake Skin Ensemble (With DVD), 2. Lot #29. Cher | And Bernadette Peters Worn Bob Mackie Sheer Peignoir Wrap-Style Gown (With Magazine), 3. Lot #37. Cher | 1870s Bob Mackie Victorian Period Ensemble, 4. Lot #43. Sonny Bono | Ret Turner Brown Four Piece Tuxedo, 5. Lot #39. Sonny Bono | The Sonny and Cher Show Emerald Green Ultra Suede Ensemble, 6. Lot #41. Sonny Bono | The Sonny And Cher Show Two-Piece Off-White Ensemble, 7. Lot #26. Cher | Cher...And Other Fantasies Television Special Bob Mackie "Garden of Eden" Costume Illustration, 8. Lot #27. Cher | 1978 Cher...Special Bob Mackie Costume Illustration, 9. Lot #21. Cher | 1999 Believe Tour Bob Mackie Conceptual Costume Illustration, 10. Lot #20. Cher | 2018 Bob Mackie Costume "Halfbreed" Costume Illustration, 11. Lot #22. Cher | Bob Mackie 1999 Believe Tour Costume Illustration, 12. Lot #19. Cher | 2019 "Farwell Tour" Bob Mackie Costume Illustration, 13. Lot #34. Cher | 1974 Vogue Editorial Signed Bob Mackie Illustration,

Mackie's work with Cher extended beyond her solo career to include her iconic television show, “The Sonny & Cher Show.” Here, Mackie's creativity was on full display, as he designed a dazzling array of costumes for Cher, each one more elaborate than the last. From sparkling gowns adorned with feathers and sequins to playful ensembles inspired by various historical periods, Mackie's designs helped to define the show's aesthetic and solidify Cher's status as a fashion icon.

While Cher undoubtedly served as Mackie's most celebrated muse, his work with Sonny Bono also contributed to the distinct visual identity of “The Sonny & Cher Show.” Mackie's designs for Bono often reflected a more classic, tailored aesthetic, with sharp suits and tuxedos that exuded a sense of sophistication and charm. These ensembles, while less overtly flamboyant than those created for Cher, were nonetheless essential in establishing the duo's on-screen dynamic and creating a cohesive visual narrative for the show.

Mackie's influence on fashion extends far beyond his work with Cher and Sonny Bono. Throughout his illustrious career, he has designed for a constellation of A-list stars, including Diana Ross, Elton John, and Tina Turner, among many others. His creations have graced red carpets, concert stages, and television screens, consistently pushing the boundaries of design and captivating audiences with their sheer artistry.

Mackie & Cher Auction Highlights:

Cher

Bob Mackie Signed 1920s Inspired Costume Illustration

Estimate:

$1,000 - $2,000

A signed Bob Mackie original mixed medium costume illustration of Cher wearing a 1920s fur-trimmed velvet coat, gold bead gown, and a matching beaded turban that Cher wore on The Sonny and Cher Show when she performed "It Had to Be You." Cher wore the gold bead again on The Sonny and Cher Show, season 2, episode 14, air date February 4, 1977, for the show's opening, where both Sonny and her sang "You Make Me Feel Like Dancing."

The illustration features a full-length rendering of Cher wearing a 1920s-inspired costume ensemble. The design features a full-length fur-trimmed brown cloak with batwing sleeves and a short train, a fully embellished gold gown with an asymmetric neckline cut at the center of the bodice, and a matching gold embellished turban. Cher is written at the center left-hand side of the illustration, with Bob Mackie's at the bottom left-hand corner.

Bob Mackie and Cher have become one of the most incredible designer-muse symbiotic relationships of the 20th century. His nude illusion beaded and rhinestone gowns have become a part of fashion's pantheon of designs in pop culture. In 2019, the Metropolitan Museum of Art exhibition on Camp featured numerous Mackie Mackie designs from the 1970s and 80s. Designers like Donatella Versace, Alessandro Michelle, and Jeremy Scott were among the contemporary designers whose custom looks paid homage to original, sexy, and satirical Mackie's designs.

Mount: 14 x 20 inches Illustration: 11.5 x 17 inches

PROVENANCE From The Archives of Bob Mackie

Cher

"It Had to Be You" Bob Mackie Three-Piece 1920s Inspired Performance Costume

Estimate:

$4,000 - $6,000

A Bob Mackie three-piece costume design for Cher referencing the 1920s with a fur-trimmed velvet coat, gold bead gown, and a matching beaded turban that Cher wore on The Sonny and Cher Show when she performed "It Had to Be You." Cher wore the gold bead again on The Sonny and Cher Show, season 2, episode 14, air date February 4, 1977, for the show's opening, where both Sonny and her sang "You Make Me Feel Like Dancing."

The design features a full-length fur-trimmed brown cloak with batwing sleeves and a short train, a fully embellished vermicelli beaded gold gown with an asymmetric neckline cut at the center of the bodice and an exposed back, and a matching gold-embellished turban with a draped cowl. Cher's cloak features an upright collar that follows the fur trim outlining the opening and hem of the piece. It is fully lined, with no label present. The gown has a Bob Mackie label sewn at the interior.

Bob Mackie and Cher have become one of the most incredible designer-muse symbiotic relationships of the 20th century. His nude illusion beaded and rhinestone gowns have become a part of fashion's pantheon of designs in pop culture. In 2019, the Metropolitan Museum of Art exhibition on Camp featured numerous Mackie designs from the 1970s and 80s. Designers like Donatella Versace, Alessandro Michelle, and Jeremy Scott were the contemporary designers whose custom looks paid homage to original, sexy, and satirical Mackie's designs.

PROVENANCE From The Archives of Bob Mackie

Cher

The Sonny And Cher Show Performance Bob Mackie Evening Gown With Record

Estimate:

$3,000 - $5,000

A two-piece evening ensemble designed by Bob Mackie for Cher was worn numerous times for publicity images, and The Sonny and Cher Show, where Cher covered Ethel Waters' 1933 song "Stormy Weather," August 22, 1971 (CBS).

The ensemble was featured on Cher's album cover for LP "Cher-Superpak Vol. II," produced by United Artists Records and released in 1972.

The ensemble features a matte jersey chocolate brown gown with rolled straps worn with a patterned silk velvet cropped jacket with beaded embellishment and brown marabou feather sleeves.

The interior has a Bob Mackie Ray Aghayan label sewn on. Bob and Ray began working together on The Judy Garland Show, whose designs quickly gained fanfare, leading them into their joint business venture with Elizabeth Courtney Costumes. Mackie and Aghayan created dazzling nude illusion, voluminous feathers, and filled beaded gowns worn by celebrities for publicity, editorial, stage, and screen. Their elaborate creations have transcended decades, becoming timeless, with Mackie's archives still being worn and featured on the red carpet today.

The lot comes with a copy of a record and album cover featuring Mackie's evening ensemble.

PROVENANCE From The Archives of Bob Mackie

Sonny Bono

Ret Turner Brown Four Piece Tuxedo

Estimate:

$800 - $1,200

A four-piece brown tuxedo belonging to Sonny Bono and designed by Ret Turner. The four-piece ensemble features a beaded peak lapel, a single-breasted jacket with bugle beaded embroidered vertically with spacing in between each line, a beige polyester shirt with wide spread collar, a double-breasted shirt vest, and straight-leg pants with a beaded tuxedo-stripes-on-each-pant leg.

The ensemble has Coteonro labels, which fabricated the suit, sewn into the interior of the garments, with "RT" written in black marker indicating Ret Turner. Sonny Bono favored this style of suiting, as he wore a similar version for his and Cher's stage act, which toured in 1976.

Ret Turner, a partner with Bob Mackie and Ray Aghayan's costume rental business, Elizabeth Courtney, designed the ensemble. Turner, alongside his partners, worked on productions from The Carol Burnett Show and The Sonny and Cher Show, earning industry awards and nominations for his designs.

PROVENANCE From The Archives of Bob Mackie

Cher

Bob Mackie Design Matte Jersey Halter Gown

Estimate:

$3,000 - $5,000

A Bob Mackie matte jersey multi-color halter neck gown design for Cher circa 1970s. The Mackie design features hues of pink and orange, with each panel radiating from the neckline and widening as they reach the hem of the fluted skirt. The dress is streamlined, fitting close to the body, with the skirt flaring slightly at the lower leg and gathering into light folds. A zip closure is at the back of the dress, with a hook-and-eye closure at the collar. A Bob Mackie and Ray Aghayan label is sewn at the interior.

Cher wore a similar style design on The Sonny and Cher Show, season four, episode 15, which aired January 9, 1975.

His nude illusion beaded and rhinestone gowns have become a part of fashion's pantheon of designs in pop culture. The Metropolitan Museum of Art in 2019 did an exhibition on Camp that featured numerous Mackie Mackie designs from the 1970s and 80s. Designers like Donatella Versace, Alessandro Michelle, and Jeremy Scott were contemporary designers whose custom looks paid homage to original, sexy, and satirical Mackie's designs.

Please note there is a stretch to the material. Bust: 32 inches Waist: 28 inches Hips: 32 inches Length: About 62 inches (Measured at Center Back)

PROVENANCE From The Archives of Bob Mackie

Sonny Bono

The Sonny And Cher Show Two-Piece Off-White Ensemble

Estimate:

$800 - $1,200

Ret Turner designed a two-piece off-white polyester jacquard jacket and pant ensemble for Sonny Bono for The Sonny and Cher Show, season two, episode 19, which aired on March 30, 1972 (CBS).

The ensemble includes a cropped white polyester jacket with riveted bronze-tone buttons, pockets, and a wide-spread collar paired with matching creased straight-leg pants. Both garments have Coteonwo labels present, with "RT" written in black marker indicating Ret Turner. The pants have additional notations written on the tag and waistband: "M-SU-L-1, EC 2, RT."

PROVENANCE From The Archives of Bob Mackie

Cher

Bob Mackie Turquoise Beaded Ensemble

Estimate:

$1,000 - $2,000

A custom Bob Mackie matte jersey turquoise two-piece ensemble designed for Cher circa the 1970s. The ensemble includes a fully beaded halter blouse and a column skirt with beaded embroidered feathers.

Top: Bust Open (Front, Drart to Dart 13 inches flat) Waist About 25 inches Length 25 inches Skirt: Waist 24 inches Hips 32 inches Length 42 inches

PROVENANCE From The Archives of Bob Mackie

Cher

2019 "Farwell Tour" Bob Mackie Costume Illustration

Estimate:

$800 - $1,200

A signed Bob Mackie costume illustration of Cher in a Middle Eastern-inspired performance ensemble for her 2019 Farewell Tour, worn for her performance of "All or Nothing."

The original mixed medium illustration features a full-length figure of Cher in a Middle Eastern-inspired costume performance ensemble wearing a headdress, veil, embellished top, harem pants, and curved-toe heeled boots. "Cher" is written in black ink at the top left-hand corner, and Bob Mackie's signature is at the bottom right-hand corner.

Bob Mackie began his career working with some of the most acclaimed Hollywood costume designers, Jean Louis and Edith Head. In 1963, he began working with Ray Aghayan for CBS's The Judy Garland Show, then went on to work and collaborated with Carol Burnette, Cher, and Diana Ross. Mackie's satiric eye referencing films from the Golden Age of cinema and nude illusion and beaded pieces became style hallmarks for the 60s, 70s, 80s, and 90s. His designs continue to attract the interest of new generations of performers and celebrities who continue to wear his designs.

11 x 17 inches

PROVENANCE From The Archives of Bob Mackie

Cher

The Cher Show Performance Bob Mackie Beaded Two-Piece

Estimate:

$3,000 - $5,000

This is a two-piece fully beaded ensemble designed by Bob Mackie for Cher. She wore it for her "Take Me Home" performance in season one of The Cher Show, which aired April 6, 1975 (1975-76 CBS).

The burgundy iridescent organza ensemble (lined in matching silk crepe) features a symmetric beaded crop top and a low-waisted beaded skirt. The top has darted cups with a low-cut neckline and sleeve on the right and is beaded with iridescent burgundy, faceted rhinestones, and fringe. Heavy beaded embroidery trims the border of the neckline, creating a geometric pattern. The left cup of the bust is fully beaded in matching bugle beading. Top fastens with an interior hook and eye at the overlapping panels at the back of the bodice. The floor-length skirt has a drop waist with heavy beaded embellishment at the waistband and left hip, mirroring the pattern of the neckline. No size or labels are present.

Cher began her own variety show with CBS from 1975 to 1976, following the conclusion of The Sonny and Cher Comedy Hour. The show aired for two seasons and had 26 episodes.

The interior is missing its label but was designed in the 70s when Bob and Ray Aghgayon ran their joint business, Elizabeth Courtney Costumes. Mackie and Aghayan created dazzling nude illusion, voluminous feathers, and filled beaded gowns worn by celebrities for publicity, editorial, stage, and screen. Their elaborate creations have transcended decades, becoming timeless, with Mackie's archives still being worn and featured on the red carpet today.

Top: Bust 32 inches Underbust 26 inches Skirt: Waist 24 inches Hips 32 inches Length About 43 inches (Hip to Hem)

PROVENANCE From The Archives of Bob Mackie

Cher

1870s Bob Mackie Victorian Period Ensemble

Estimate:

$3,000 - $4,000

A Bob Mackie four-piece 1870s period ensemble designed and worn by Cher for The Sonny and Cher Show circa 1970s. The costume features a Victorian s-shape three-piece ensemble that includes a burgundy velvet paletot (boned at interior) with faux button bodice (jacket) with black faceted jet beaded trim (jacket has a hidden zipper at the front of the bodice), black sequin floral applique, pleated fuschia chiffon at the collar and cuffs, purple silk accents with applique embroidery, black lace trim, a full wool skirt with black chiffon, black beaded floral embroidery and black sequin applique, synthetic satin bustle and hemmed with black and magenta pleated organza. The ensemble comes with a padded bra (Henson by Marja) with pleated magenta chiffon. Accessories with the ensemble include a black velvet drawstring purse, chocker with velvet ribbon, earrings, and a floral Victorian velvet promenade hat. A Bob Mackie label is sewn at the interior of the paletot, and an Elizabeth Courtney label is sewn at the interior of the skirt.

Bob Mackie and Ray Aghayan began working with Elizabeth Courtney, who took their sketches and produced detailed fitted garments. Mackie and Aghayan invited Elizabeth to join them when they opened their own costume house, which they named Elizabeth Courtney, as they felt she was their lucky charm in producing their most beloved designs and costumes until her death in 1974.

Lot comes with a photographed copy of the original costume illustration.

Link to photo available upon request.

Top: Shoulders 16 inches Bust 34 inches Waist 26 inches Length About 47.5 inches (Neck to Tassels) Skirt: Waist About 24 inches Skirt Length 44.5 inches (Front, Waist to Hem) Train Lenth About 64 inches Bra: 24 inches (End to End) Marked size 34

PROVENANCE From The Archives of Bob Mackie

'Unmistakably Mackie'

Mackie's legacy is one of innovation, creativity, and a fearless embrace of individuality. His designs have not only shaped the way we think about fashion but have also played a pivotal role in defining the visual culture of our time. As we celebrate the upcoming "Hollywood Legends: Unmistakably Mackie" auction event at the Waldorf Astoria Beverly Hills on December 11th at 10:00 am PST, we are reminded of the enduring power of Mackie's vision and his unparalleled contribution to the world of fashion.

This auction features a curated selection of 70 items from the archive of Mackie's most iconic creations, and offers a rare opportunity to acquire a piece of fashion history from the mind and Mackie’s inspirations.

Register and bid now. Celebrate the genius of a true Hollywood legend.

a man wearing glasses and a black sweater is laughing

Live Auction

HOLLYWOOD LEGENDS : UNMISTAKABLY MACKIE

Dec 11, 2024

10:00 AM PST