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Bob Mackie: King of Rhinestones Crowned With Dedicated ‘Hollywood Legends’ Auction

Julien's Auctions chronicles the life and career of iconic fashion designer Bob Mackie, highlighting his early beginnings, collaborations with celebrities like Cher, Judy Garland, Diana Ross, Mitzi Gaynor, and more with a dedicated "Unmistakably Mackie" auction on December 11, at 10 AM PT during our “Week of Hollywood Legends” in deep partnership with Turner Classic Movies (TCM). Register & Bid Now.

November 15, 2024

bob mackie american fashion designer is smiling in front of a black dress

Bob Mackie is quintessential Hollywood glamour gravely infused with sartorial extravagance. A true icon in the world of fashion, his journey from a young boy fascinated by the allure of costumes to the "Sultan of Sequins," is a lifelong demonstration to his unparalleled creativity and dedication to his craft.

Born in 1939, Mackie's passion for design blossomed early on. He honed his skills at the prestigious Chouinard Art Institute (now CalArts) and later at the Fashion Institute of Design & Merchandising in Los Angeles. His talent quickly caught the eye of legendary costume designer Edith Head, who hired him as a sketch artist for Paramount Studios. This marked the beginning of Mackie's illustrious career in the entertainment industry.

Mackie's early work with iconic figures like Judy Garland, for whom he designed costumes for "The Judy Garland Show," showcased his ability to create show-stopping ensembles that perfectly complemented the performer's personality and stage presence. His collaboration with Mitzi Gaynor further solidified his reputation as a designer who could transform ordinary garments into extraordinary works of art.

However, it was his partnership with the enigmatic Cher that truly catapulted Mackie into the spotlight. Their creative synergy resulted in some of the most unforgettable fashion moments in history. From the groundbreaking "naked dress" Cher wore to the 1974 Met Gala to her flamboyant stage costumes, Mackie's designs for Cher were daring, innovative, and perfectly captured her fearless spirit.

Bob Mackie

Runway Collection Gold Brocade Evening Gown

Estimate:

$1,000 - $2,000

A Bob Mackie gold silk brocade gown with a strapless embellished bodice and a ball gown skirt. The skirt gathers under the bodice at the gown's sides and back, giving the design added dimension. The front of the skirt is flat and defined by the folds at the sides. The interior of the gown has Petersham at the waistline to assist with the weight of the skirt. The bodice is exquisitely embellished with rhinestones, gold metal, and beaded accents.

Bob Mackie started designing ready-to-wear and having seasonal fashion shows at the Shubert Theater in 1982. His designs for Cher, Diana Ross, and Tina Turner made him a household name, leading him to bring his Hollywood-style design aesthetic to ready-to-wear lines. Mackie, who was interviewed by Booth Moore in 2021 for Women's Wear Daily, said, “My feeling is, if you are going to do a show, do a show!” Mackie's designs marry fantasy, glamour, and bold aesthetics that continue to define and influence fashion. For his 1999 Gucci Collection, Tom Ford drew inspiration from Bob Mackie's designs; Ford, like many other designers, saw Mackie's designs as inspiration due to their extravagance and sexuality, which have become timeless.

PROVENANCE From The Archives of Bob Mackie

Bob Mackie

1998 Runway Collection Belle Epoque Style Gown

Estimate:

$800 - $1,200

A Bob Mackie evening gown and satin stole from his 1998 runway collection. The design features a black velvet bodice, a marigold duchess satin skirt, and a short train. The Belle Epoque-style gown features the "S" shape in vogue during that period, with a bodice that creates a defined bust and waist (with a basque waistline). Macke adds his beaded embellishment at the off-the-shoulder strains with beaded tassels. The interior has an internal Petersham to support the weight of the skirt. A Bob Mackie lael Is sewn at the interior with black marker notations, no size label present.

PROVENANCE From The Archives of Bob Mackie

Bob Mackie

Fran Drescher "The Beautician And The Beast" Embellished Tulle Evening Gown

Estimate:

$800 - $1,200

An original Bob Mackie evening gown with a strapless beaded bodice with a cinched waist and multi-layer iridescent organza, tulle ballgown skirt worn by Fran Drescher as Joy Miller in the film The Beautician and the Beast, costarring Timothy Dalton (Paramount, 1997). This design was a part of Bob Mackie's Fall/Winter 1997 runway collection.

An elaborate strapless wedding/evening gown with a beaded bodice with a defined basque waistline that emphasizes the layered ball gown skirt. Two labels are sewn on the gown's interior; one is an EC2 (Elizabeth Courtney Lable), and the other is Bob Mackie's signature label.

Drescher takes on a similar comedic role, like Fran Fine in The Nanny, with a similar storyline of a beautician (cosmetologist) who accidentally is mistaken for a science teacher and is sent abroad to educate an Eastern European government leader's children and ends up altering Dalton's character of Boris Pochenko's perspective on diplomacy and how to be a better father.

PROVENANCE From The Archives of Bob Mackie

Pink

Bob Mackie 2022 AMA 1987 Archival Earthquake Dress

Estimate:

$3,000 - $5,000

A 1987 archival design from Bob Mackie's archives worn by Pink on the red carpet of the AMA Awards on November 22, 2022.

The design was a part of Mackie's 1987 "California Collection," referencing California's earthquake natural disaster. Fully embellished with sequins and beads, the dress features a jagged sheer cut lined with tulle that runs asymmetrically from the neck to the right thigh; the left features a thigh slip hem as well. The dress is anything but modest with an exposed nack, strategic reveals, and a short hem with slits it made for a pop superstar's red carpet entrance. A Bob Mackie label is on the interior, but no size tag is present.

Pink wore two of Mackie's designs for the award show, changing into a customer-made gown worn by Cher for one of her tours honoring the late Oliva Newton-John with a performance of "Hopelessly Devoted to You."

Bob Mackie and Cher have become one of the most incredible designer-muse symbiotic relationships of the 20th century. His nude illusion beaded and rhinestone gowns have become a part of fashion's pantheon of designs in pop culture. In 2019, the Metropolitan Museum of Art exhibition on Camp featured numerous Mackie Mackie designs from the 1970s and 80s. Designers like Donatella Versace, Alessandro Michelle, and Jeremy Scott were among the contemporary designers whose custom looks paid homage to original, sexy, and satirical Mackie's designs.

The interior has a Bob Mackie Ray Aghayan label sewn on. Bob and Ray began working together on The Judy Garland Show, whose designs quickly gained fanfare, leading them into their joint business venture with Elizabeth Courtney Costumes. Mackie and Aghayan created dazzling nude illusion, voluminous feathers, and filled beaded gowns worn by celebrities for publicity, editorial, stage, and screen. Their elaborate creations have transcended decades, becoming timeless, with Mackie's archives still being worn and featured on the red carpet today.

Miley Cyrus

Bob Mackie 66th Grammy Awards Performance Worn Dress

Estimate:

$6,000 - $8,000

A Bob Mackie beaded evening dress worn by Miley Cyrus for her performance of "Flowers" at the 66th Grammy Awards, February 4, 2024.

A fully beaded evening dress with a cut-out midriff and fringed beaded skirt. The dress is a sheer black silk chiffon fully beaded with rhinestones, sequins, and beads. The design has ties to Mackie's nude illusion gowns with an embellished bust (two-tone, black net overlaid light beige bra-cups) that has a built-in padded bra with underwire. Small pops of magenta, purple, and teal sequins give the primarily black and silver dress a colorful sparkle. There is a hidden zip at the back of the dress with a Bob Mackie label sewn at the interior, but no size label is present. The dress comes with a pair of matching black silk chiffon-lined underwear worn due to the sheer design of the garment.

The dress Cyrus wore was in Mackie's 2002 runway collection "To Broadway with Love." Christian Allaire interviewed Mackie for Vogue, who explained the design origins and why it fits Cyrus perfectly: “It was a collection of fashions inspired by Broadway musicals,” says Mackie. “[Cyrus’s dress] was from a ‘Big Spender’ number. We had three girls in these little sexy fringe dresses.” Considering Cyrus’s choreography, Mackie knew the dress was perfect for her.

Allaire wrote at length for Vogue about an iconic fashion moment following the award show: "Cyrus’s shimmering Mackie ended up being one of the Grammys’ most discussed fashion moments. A huge fan of Mackie’s designs, Cyrus and her stylist, Bradley Kenneth, approached the designer about wearing something from his archives to the Grammys. Mackie says, 'She’s borrowed a few things in the past,' including for her New Year’s Eve special with Dolly Parton last year. 'Every time I’ve ever seen her in anything that I’ve [designed], I’ve adored it because she loves to perform and get dressed up—you know that she’s loving every minute of it.'"

The dress was from Mackie's runway collection that paid homage to Broadway musicals. Mackie, who also designed for the stage, took inspiration from the stage and film versions of the musicals; this particular design took inspiration from Sweet Charity.

A portion of the proceeds for this lot are being donated to Music Cares.

PROVENANCE From The Archives of Bob Mackie

Cher

Bob Mackie 1983 Academy Award Worn Gown

Estimate:

$3,000 - $4,000

An original Bob Mackie beaded white evening gown worn by Cher for the 55th Annual Academy Awards on March 22, 1983. Cher and Placido Domingo presented the Best Adaptation Score award to Henry Mancini and Leslie Bricusse at the ceremony for the film Victor/Victoria. Cher also wore the gown during her Cher...Special (1979) and is seen wearing the gown while on stage with Dolly Parton.

A semi-sheer white silk organza full-length evening with a white and silver bugle beaded pattern and faceted rhinestones throughout. The gown features a high neckline with an exposed back, dolman sleeves, a bodice that blouses at the drop waistline, and an alien skirt that is fitted at the hips and then goes out just above the knee. A Bob Mackie label is sewn at the interior waist on the Petersham. The gown's bodice is partially lined and landed, to the semi-sheer aesthetic of the overall design. Two tassels at the cuffs were not present when Cher wore the design in 1983 but were likely added afterward.

Bob Mackie and Cher have become one of the most incredible designer-muse symbiotic relationships of the 20th century. His nude illusion beaded and rhinestone gowns have become a part of fashion's pantheon of designs in pop culture. In 2019 the Metropolitan Museum of Art exhibition on Camp featured numerous Mackie Mackie designs from the 1970s and 80s. Designers like Donatella Versace, Alessandro Michelle, and Jeremy Scott were contemporary designers whose custom looks paid homage to original, sexy, and satirical Mackie designs.

Bust: 18 inches flat (underarm to underarm) Waist: About 28 inches Hips: 34 nches Length: 57.5 inches (Front. Neck to Hem)

PROVENANCE From The Archives of Bob Mackie

Mackie Makes Waves

Throughout the 1970s and 1980s, Mackie's career soared. He became the go-to designer for Hollywood's elite, creating breathtaking gowns for stars like Diana Ross, Liza Minnelli, and Tina Turner. His designs were a mainstay on the red carpet and graced the covers of countless magazines. Mackie's signature style, characterized by intricate beading, elaborate embroidery, and a touch of theatricality, became synonymous with high-octane glamour.

In addition to his work in the entertainment industry, Mackie also made a name for himself in the world of high fashion. He launched his own ready-to-wear line, offering his unique brand of glamour to a wider audience. His creations were coveted by fashionistas and celebrities alike, cementing his status as a true fashion icon.

Mackie's contributions to the world of fashion have not gone unnoticed. He has received numerous accolades, including nine Emmy Awards and three Academy Award nominations for his costume design work. His creations have been exhibited in museums around the world, and he continues to inspire generations of designers with his unwavering commitment to creativity and innovation.

In recent years, there has been a resurgence of interest in Mackie's work, with celebrities like Zendaya, Anya Taylor-Joy, and Margot Robbie donning vintage Mackie designs on the red carpet. This renewed appreciation for his timeless creations speaks to his enduring legacy as one of the most influential fashion designers of all time.

a drawing of a woman in a long dress with the year 1991 on the bottom

a painting of a woman in a green dress with flowers on it

a drawing of a woman in a green and gold dress

a drawing of a woman in a zebra print dress

a drawing of a woman in a wedding dress with the name diana on it

a drawing of a woman in a gold dress with fringe

a drawing of cher in a native american costume

a drawing of a woman in a long red dress

a drawing of a woman with the name raquel on it

1. Lot #1. Madonna | 1991 Academy Award Design Illustration, 2. Lot #4. Bob Mackie | Signed 1980 Framed Fashion Evening Gown Illustration, 3. Lot #6. Bob Mackie | Barbie 2006 Couture Confection Bride Illustration, 4. Lot #10. Bob Mackie | Barbie Platinum Label Conceptual Illustration, 5. Lot #12. Bob Mackie | Barbie Gold Zebra Conceptual Design Illustration, 6. Lot #16. Diana Ross | Bob Mackie Signed 2020 Doll Conceptual Illustration, 7. Lot #17. Bob Mackie | Diana Ross 2002 Mattel Doll Design Illustration, 8. Lot #20. Cher | 2018 Bob Mackie Costume "Halfbreed" Costume Illustration, 9. Lot #22. Cher | Bob Mackie 1999 Believe Tour Costume Illustration, 10. Lot #53. Raquel Welch | Bob Mackie 1974 Nude Illusion Beaded Gown Illustration,

Undisputed Influence

Bob Mackie's impact on the world of fashion is undeniable. His ability to seamlessly blend artistry, glamour, and theatricality has resulted in some of the most iconic fashion moments in history.

As the "Rajah of Rhinestones" continues to inspire and amaze, his legacy as a true visionary in the world of fashion remains secure.

In 20 years of Julien’s Auctions, we’ve celebrated Bob Mackie through many turns, and this time, we’re bringing you 70 lots of Mackie’s biggest creations with a dedicated "Unmistakably Mackie" auction during our “Week of Hollywood Legends” in deep partnership with Turner Classic Movies (TCM).

Register and bid now – and you could be one of an elite few fashion aficionados with an keen eye for preserving the heritage of Mackie’s legacy.

a man wearing glasses and a black sweater is laughing

Live Auction

HOLLYWOOD LEGENDS : UNMISTAKABLY MACKIE

Dec 11, 2024

10:00 AM PST